Author: Sally Knight

Zoologico Amaru

The Zoologico Amaru is one of the most interesting  zoos we have ever visited.  About 15 minutes out of town the zoo is literally carved from the side of a mountain consequently there is a lot of climbing, breaks for spectacular vistas, and surprises around every bend of the path.  The animals are housed in natural habitats and can be observed in an environment that is most comfortable for them.  The sign clearly states that the primary purpose of the zoo is to provide sanctuary and peace for the animals.  Lewis and Clark University and the University of Philadelphia are active partners with the sanctuary and we met two young men who were employed by AMARU and who had visited the Houston Zoo and Moody Gardens.  The very secretive Andean bear was one of the first animals we visited.  The habitat was huge and included ponds, feeding stations and a bear cave.  Though we were able to see the bears Troy could not get a good photo.  The bears and all the other animals in the zoo are rescue animals and could not be returned to the wild.

What is a zoo without monkeys?  These little fellows seem to have the run of the entire space.  Tunnels made of chicken wire are all around the park at the top of the trees and at first glance they seem to be moving about without being hindered.  They drop onto islands scattered about the area, disappear into underground tunnels, pop back up and continue the monkey life.  They are not bored because they are stimulated constantly as they would be in the wild.

The birds were very representative of Ecuador.  Beautiful macaws, green parrots, and the  big beaked tucan are free to fly about the large aviary.  There was also an area for owls, several condors, eagles of different kinds and ducks, geese and the Pavo Reales or as we know it a peacock.  We even saw the blue footed boobie.

These beautiful tigres knew it was time to be fed and they set up a growl as two young men approached their habitat with food.  There were some African  animals.  A nice pride of lions dominated another area of the zoo.  The path we followed was over 5 kilometers.  There was no attempt to make the walk easy, however for safety there was a hand rail.  We moved up and down and in and out of areas and it was not an easy walk.  We were among the last of the guests to leave and the young man checking our tickets said his boss called and asked if Troy would send him the pictures he took.  We feel honored he asked.  Not a traditional zoo, but better and no better place to spend my birthday.

 

New Year’s Eve Preparation

Almost as soon as Christmas is over Cuenca begins to prepare for the New Year.  Vendors take down Christmas cards and lights.  Inventory unsold Santa hats and Nativity sets and bring out the New Years items.  Here it is not so much about greeting the New Year as it is saying good-bye to the old.  Masks of political figures, the famous and infamous are sold for two dollars and everyone buys them.  Dummies stuffed with newspapers, fireworks, vegetable and animal matter are built and erected around neighborhoods.  These will be set on fire to get rid of the bad and make room for the good to come.  Taxis and family cars are decorated with them.  Young men in drag call themselves the widows and go about demanding candy, money and beer.  Fireworks are set off all over the city.  This along with the bonfires makes quite a spectacle.  Some of the gringos living here tried to put a stop to the random fireworks and Cuencans said no dice.  Love it or leave it. We got into the spirit early today and bought our masks.  Note the two characters below. Apparently around 4 to 6 AM it comes to a halt and the city sleeps all day.  No shops or restaurants open so we will need to be supplied for the day.

Prospero Ano

Sally

Gualaceo to Chordeleg

Today Troy and I took a bus trip to two small towns outside of Cuenca.  The bus station was relatively easy to manipulate.  Put in a dime enter the turnstile and find a bus that has the name of the town on your agenda.  The bus was clean and comfortable and no animals were permitted so the stereotype of traveling with chickens did not exist.  However, while sitting on the bus waiting to leave a young woman gets on delivers a sales pitch about who knows what passes out lovely pieces of candy and then proceeds to continue her pitch.  She then moves up the aisle collecting money.  If you did not pay, she takes the candy back.  There were a few crying children.  She exits and another gentleman proceeds to give out Milagros, then he gives a chain to put the milagro on, same routine he tries to collect money if you don’t donate away goes the milagro.  No babies cried.  Next the Herbal Life man makes a pitch.  He hands out a pack of vitamins.  No dinero; no vitamins.  By this time we arrive in Gualaceo.

The little church was beautiful inside and the town obviously does not have many visitors because the tourist office only had one map.

Lunch was in a family restaurant.  This young man is thirteen and anxious to help his family be successful.  Lunch was fried fish and the beer was cold.   Hernan directed us to the bus station and we headed for Chordeleg.

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Piedras de Aguas

The little town of Banos which is about 10 miles South of Cuenca is known for its thermal waters and spas.  Piedras de Aguas is one of the better ones and if you make inquiries you can do a spa circuit for $35 for two.  The spa is a series of caves cut into the mountain and three beautiful pools and several restaurants. The first step in a shower and 15 minutes in a steam room followed by the mud baths.Next we entered the red mud bath which is full of iron and works as an exfolient.  Covering as much of the body as possible, the red mud dyes the nails, hair and Troy left with a red beard.  Sit in the sun until it dries and wash it off and shower and go for the green mud .

The green mud supposedly contains gold, silver and quartz. Another shower and it is time for the thermal baths.  The thermal baths consist of a warm pool for 10 minutes and a freezing pool for a minute.  No one ever lasts a full minute in the cold pool.  This is followed by an old fashioned steam bath.

We treated ourselves to a chocolate massage and lunch in the restaurant.  Look for bargains and these experiences need not be expensive.

 

 

Christmas Eve Pase del Nino Viajero

December 24 marks the final Pase del Nino.  This extremely long parade is exactly like the prior smaller ones that we had the opportunity to see, but it lasted for six and a half hours.  We took an ice cream break, a lunch break and did some window shopping each time to return to Simon Bolivar to see more of the parade.  Beautiful costumes, off key bands, exuberant dancers and smiling faces lasted for the entire parade.  A good laugh breaks all language barriers.  Toward the end of the parade there were about 6 floats with roasted pigs on them.  My favorite was this whole hog with a tiny umbrella over his head.  The lady standing beside me and I both had a good laugh over that one.  The final figure in this parade was not Santa but a smiling archbishop waving to the Church community.  I suspect that he waited out his time to appear in the comfort of his office not in the Plaza de San Francisco as the other participants did.

Feliz Navidad

Sally

Pase del Nino Viajero

Friday, December 23, Troy and I had the privilege of witnessing an unusual and typically Ecuadorian celebration called the Pase del Nino Viajero.  The celebration began 60 years ago when a wealthy family commissioned an Italian artist to carve a statue of the Infant Jesus.  The Priest who collected the Image traveled extensively with it before returning to Cuenca.   The Statue was welcomed home and referred to as the Traveling Child.  Every year the Sagrada Imagen is brought from the Saturio Mariano where it has spent most of the year and makes another ceremonial journey.  This journey is a highly military one.  The Image is dressed in a military uniform,  guarded by lancers and the horsemen, personally carried by a three star general.  Over a period of about three hours, the image leaves the Saturio Mariano, visits a monastery, is the center piece of a vesper service at the New Cathedral, is carried across the park and finally comes to rest at the Old Cathedral.  The whole concept was strangely wonderful to Troy and me.  There was no political correctness.  Close ties to the Church and Military.  Black face clowns dancing down the aisle of the church with their arms full of flowers. Cowboys with whips.  Men and women joyously singing and dancing as they brought traditional gifts to the altar.  There would be protests aplenty in the USA.   We can hardly wait to see what Christmas Eve brings.  We will be attending a Rooster Mass.

Feliz Navidad,

Sally

Sombrero Museum

The Museo Municipal Casa del Sombrero has been a UNESCO site since 2010.  Located about six blocks from Parque Calderon on Calle Largo this beautifully restored workshop and museum shows the Panama hat which was never made in Panama from straw to the final product.  Some of the hats are the color or their natural straw and others have been bleached the way Al Capone preferred his.  If you are lucky hat makers will be at work training those interested in the art of hat making.  There is a large selection of hats for men and a smaller, but beautiful selection for women.  After making your purchase, there is a free cup of coffee waiting upstairs on the terrace which allows you to take in a beautiful view of the city.  See more about Panama Hats here:  https://www.brentblack.com/

 

El Mercado

A trip to the market is an adventure.  There is a super market near the apartment where we pick up essentials like cereal and milk, but the best shopping is done at El Mercado Principal.  Enter on the ground floor to be astounded by a rainbow of colors in the form of fruits and vegetables.  How do you want your bananas?  Yellow, red, purple? The size of a finger , a hand or a forearm?  Pineapples, citrus of every kind, watermelon, and then the unknown.  You can ask for a taste, bargain for the best strawberries, or be so overcome you walk away with nothing.  If you don’t want to shop hungry go upstairs for delicious pork and potatoes.  Just choose the hog that catches the eye.  Every part is available from the snout to the tail.  We don’t know where they are cooked or what force gets that porcine hulk into the market, but there he is waiting to be sold.  Two dollars will get you a plateful with potatoes on the side.  Want pancakes, soup, empanadas?  Just get in line.  The bottom floor takes a little more courage.  I was lured down there by the elaborate manger scene that was set up for the customers to enjoy.  Children pose in front of Mary and Joseph and all the other Biblical characters along with some that I suspect have a pagan past, like my kiddos posed with Santa.  Past this sweet spot there is a large array of animal parts.  Pig heads, cow legs, tripe, tongue, liver and chickens with or without feet.  Want a guinea pig for supper?  It is available as well as the special oven you will need to cook it. A visit to the bakery is even more fun, however it seems tame in comparison to that whole hog on display.

Museo de Pumapungo

At the east end of Calle Largo the Museo Pumapungo one of Cuenca’s most polished museums awaits the visitor.  The museum is free.  Just enter the building sign a visitors form and prepare to be entertained.  The first floor has a lovely shop with unique jewelry, toys, and tiles.  One area is entirely devoted to coins a reminder that this museum was once known as Banco Central Museum.The rest of the area is made of up displays of woven clothing, hat, musical instruments and household items used by residents of the area.  Seeing the interior of these huts made we realize how opulent our lives are.

The most fascinating and peaceful part of the museum was the outdoor archeological park behind the building.  First there were two large ovens that were used to bake the building materials used in building the Incan city.  There were the usual temple sites and outlines of buildings used for storage or various needs.  Llamas grazed and slept on the terraced hill and there was a huge garden that represented the crops that provided food for the residents of the area.  Corn, the staff of life, watermelons, pumpkins, beans are a part of the Incan diet were grown.  There are fours rivers near by to irrigation was available to water the crops.  Flowers and herbs that were easily recognizable were used as food and medicines.  An beautiful well tended aviary was full of birds.  The Incan people believed there was a direct connection between man and bird and the birds became godlike.  Feathers were used to adorn their clothing and their bodies.  One particular item in the part was particularly beautiful.  A small tower filled with music and nets of feathers featured a video of migrating birds.  We were invited to sit and meditate on the importance of our feathered friends.  We plan to return to the outdoor park for a second visit.

 

Just call me Forrest Gump

Saturday we picked a street to wander and it was Simon Bolivar.  We walked toward Parque Calderon and turned right and wandered into an upscale neighborhood with beautiful shops and cafes.  Saw some beautiful artisanal objects we plan to go back to, ate delicious bakery goods and wandered into decorator shops that would make any home lovelier.  Sunday we walked down Presidente Borrego and turned left on Simon Boliver and realized something was different.  We walked about two blocks and the streets were blocked for yet another Christmas Parade.  I felt like Forrest Gump after he went back to the White House the third or fourth time.  This parade was definitely different.  The previous one had two star generals, high ranking paratroopers and gorgeous horses.  This was definitely working class.  No military bands and generals.  Three rather sad looking horses and the little angels did not have matching gold sandals.  It did not lack in joy and spirit.  We followed it to San Blas Plaza and Church were the parade began to disperse.  One lady came over to thank us for coming to Ecuador.  Each Parrish will have a parade until the 24th of December when the big one, El Paseo de Ninos begins.  We then did really touristy stuff.  Ate pizza, took a city tour, ate ice cream and called it a day.  We had dinner at Café Austria.  Not a bad dinner, spent almost as much on wine as food.  Sometimes that is what you need to do.  We love our trip and this beautiful country and welcoming people.

Adios, Sally